You've just climbed back onto the boat after a great dive, and it's tempting to just toss your regulator in your gear bag and deal with it later. Don't. Salt crystallizes as it dries, and once it works its way into the first stage or second stage mechanisms, it starts wearing down seals and metal parts that are expensive to replace.
A few minutes of proper rinsing and drying after every saltwater dive is what actually determines how long your regulator lasts. Here's how to do it right.
Step 1: Cap it before you rinse
Before your regulator touches any water, make sure the dust cap on the first stage is dry and sealed tight. Water getting past the dust cap and into the first stage is one of the most common ways regulators get damaged during cleaning, so this step comes before anything else, not after.
Step 2: Soak and flush
Submerge the whole regulator in a tub or sink of fresh, room-temperature water. While it's submerged, gently press the purge buttons on your second stage and octopus a few times to flush salt out of the exhaust valve and mouthpiece. Let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes so any salt crystals have time to dissolve instead of just rinsing off the surface.
Step 3: Rinse the extras
Don't stop at the first and second stages. Rinse your SPG, BCD inflator hose connection, and any hose fittings the same way. Salt collects in the same tight spaces on these parts, and they're just as prone to corrosion if you skip them.
Step 4: Dry it right
Hang the regulator to air dry somewhere shaded, not in direct sunlight, which breaks down diaphragms and hose material over time. Avoid pressing the purge button while it's drying, since that can force water back into the second stage. Let everything dry fully before you pack it away, since sealing away lingering moisture is what leads to mildew and odor.
Step 5: Store it properly
Once it's dry, keep the first stage dust cap on and store the regulator with its hoses loosely coiled, not kinked or tightly wound, which stresses the hose material over time. This is where a dedicated hanger earns its keep. Saekodive's Universal Hanger has a U-hook built specifically for a regulator, plus rotating arms for your mask and accessories, so your whole rinsed kit can dry and store on one hanger instead of getting tangled in a gear bag.
One more thing rinsing won't fix
Rinsing and proper storage slow down corrosion and wear, but they don't replace professional service. Most manufacturers recommend an annual regulator service to replace internal seals and check intermediate pressure, regardless of how well you've maintained it between dives.
- SK500 Scuba Diving Regulator Set - Regular price $359.95 USD
- SK100 Scuba Diving Regulator Set - Regular price$259.95 USD
- Universal Hanger - Regular price $32.95 USD
A regulator is one of the few pieces of gear you're trusting with every breath underwater, so the few minutes it takes to rinse, dry, and store it right after each dive is time well spent. Happy diving!